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Some of this property's appeal is what it lacks; zillions of stairs, a perilous open drop to the sea, delicate fabrics and priceless antiques. On the other hand, there is a lot that really works for families on vacation. There is drive up parking and a lawn surrounding the easy-flow layout of the house at the same level. There is a small, shallow private pool within viewing distance of the outdoor terrace. The lawn and terrace are level with the open-plan living room/dining room/kitchen. All the bedrooms are ensuite, with Masters that open to the garden, and twin bedded rooms that do not. And you drive no more than 1 1/2 hours from Rome's Fiumicino Airport to get here. Once here there are a lot of day-trips and easy diversions for everyone, all within a half-hour or an hour.
The property was recently renovated by the owner for his daughter when she comes to the sea in the summer with her family. There is another family next door - beyond the hedge-screened fence -- who also come for weekends and holidays. This is the community of Ansedonia, a residential enclave of weekend and holiday houses along one of Tuscany's most desirable stretches of coastline. Ansedonia and neighboring Monte Argentario is an easy two hours from the Eternal City, a Mediterranean escape from city life where spring comes early and autumn lingers long. Summer is a high season of relaxation and pleasure, the markets alive and the restaurants busy.
This is where Romans have long come to enjoy the seaside. In more recent years foreigners have come too, first as overnight guests, then taking homes for the season themselves. The nearby gated estates along the water's edge have hosted all manner of heads of state, aristocrats and modern success stories. Ansedonia, like the Monte Argentario and the surrounding towns of Maremma are attractive for their undeveloped and undiscovered style. Now the Tuscan Coast is within view of anyone who knows and loves Italy and wants a chance to experience a Tuscany that feels about 15 years behind Chianti in tourism but not in charm.
The property is a relaxed and casual home near the sea that affords an opportunity to live 'al Italiana' with an emphasis on fun and sun and easy diversions. Within the neighborhood of Le Oche itself are two long sandy beaches, one reached on foot walking 10 minutes down to the shore, and one 10 minutes away that everyone goes to by local shuttle bus. Beaches here are very civilized, with services providing beds, towels, bathrooms and restaurants. From Le Oche you can also reach an open-to-the-public tennis club, a rustic bike rental outfit for exploring the local woods, and a small store for all the essentials. There is one bar where everyone goes and one everyday restaurant that will deliver pizza and gelato. What more could you want within walking distance in a seaside neighborhood?
How about a really interesting archeological site with blocks of stones the size of automobiles that have stood in place on the top of the hill for thousands of years, beginning with the Etruscans and then taking shape during the Roman Empire?. Cosa is little known and rustic by the standards of Pompeii, but there is a simple museum on the grounds, very informal but interesting for all ages -- even if just for the huge oil pots and olive trees -- and well worth the walk.
From the propertyyou can drive 10 minutes to a larger town with all the necessary shops, services and restaurants that happens to have a lovely walkable historic center with lots of pizza and ice cream and a really wonderful family-oriented passegiata on Saturday and Sunday afternoons where everyone comes out and strolls together, eating pizza, drinking wine and having one more gelato.
Beyond Ansedonia are a wide range of small hill-villages for dining out, exploring the local medieval history and getting into nature. Visit the port towns of Porto Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole where the people-watching is entertaining, the shopping is good, and the sleek boats wait expectantly for private excursions by sea. There is regular service to the neighboring islands of Giannutri and Giglio by ferry across the ocean, giving you a chance at discovering and enjoying some of the less-disturbed reaches of The Tuscan Archipelago.
Inland, try sampling the ancient Roman spa of Saturnia -- now completely updated with travertine lined pools and modern changing facilities. There are the wild reaches of the Uccellina for hiking and nature walks. If you are a good rider you can go out early in the morning with the cowboys who look after the classic Maremma cattle. At Capalbio you can hear chamber music under the stars and eat really well. In Bolgheri and Scansano you can eat really well again and taste more of those heavenly wines.
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